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Gunks: April 9, 2017

I drove up for a day trip with Dave Roller. I we made good time for a Sunday morning.  We got right on some quality routes on my first day back in 2017.  Closures were in effect and the stellar weather had the Trapps looking very busy.  We hiked down to the Season.

Dave got on the Spring.  The route was gushing out the bottom, earning its name.  Roller got up to the chains. We moved the belay over and above the Winter. I lead the second pitch cleanly. I believe this was the second pitch of Spring as the routes cross, however the Williams guide and Gunks App differ in this distinction. Do the routes cross or not? It doesn’t matter. The crux is coming out of the open book/ right facing corner. Climb through some steepness on good holds, I plugged a Ball Nut into the seam in the ceiling, reached left hand out to a good hold, Dropped my right hand in to a side-pull and walked my feet up the face until i was nearly horizontal. I locked off and reached up right hand to a thank-god flat ledge. From here there climbing eases off and the anchor is just around the corner.

Dave and I each and a run at Last Frontier. Dave lead it, I lead it on his placed gear, then he cleaned it up.
We went down and Dave jumped on Simple Suff. I’ve been on the climb enough to feel confident I could get it if dave backed off, which he wisely did. I pushed on another move before realizing the route was wet in the thin finger locks, on the face crimps and even the horizontals. I made it to a fixed nut and also bailed. I had a bit of a scare when my lower “backup” nut popped. I wasn’t completely surprised by that since the nut was just clipped with a single carabiner, with a good bit of outward force being applied.  Anyway, I made it off safely with only leaving one carabiner behind.

We packed up and walked toward the uberfalls. Dave lead Pink Laurel onsight. Apparently it’s been 5 years since I last followed Wizard on this climb. It feels like just a season or two ago.  I cleaned that up and we headed on home.

New in the heat

I drove down to meet Sam & Craig on Wednesday with a car full of food and car camping supplies. We grilled Wednesday night at the AAC camp ground. The guys have been climbing with a road tripper, Ben.

On Thursday we headed into Fern. I warmed up on Chameleon, followed Ben on Two Bag Face (awesome route and great top out), hug the draws on Wild Seed for a redpoint, lead Fragile Ego System. From there Ben and I headed around to do some more trad lines. Ben cruised up Triple Treat, I lead Bisect, we TR’d Anal Clenching Adventures, and then I lead Spring Board.  From there we packed up and went to the Bridge Buttress. I tore my hands up further on Jaws before calling quits for the day. It was brutally hot and i don’t know how we got so much climbing in. We had dinner at Pies and Pints

On Friday, Ben took off and the temperatures were looking higher. Craig, Sam and I went to Summersville to climb and swim. We had a pretty late start and found the lake empty of climbers when we arrived. The flood damage was apparent, a lot of brown leaves, dead rhododendron, branches all around, and silt on every surface. I lead Personal Pronoun (Menace Alert), Jesus Is My License Plate (Going Ballistic). I don’t know when or why these climbs are given different names. I took another redpoint on Satisfaction Guaranteed. We decided to cool down on Jeff’s Bunny Hop.  From there we took a swim. I decided to thrash myself on Apollo Reed. The bottom was definitely silty, but climbable.  The ground around there is covered in a solid layer of grime. I did pull myself through the first crux and went up to the high crux on the route, which was actually seeping. We stopped in Water Stone and had another cookout after that.

Saturday I was on my own. I took a hike around endless and scoped routes and the approaches. I spent a good part of the day in the hammock and catching up on a bit of work reading. Sunday I returned to philly, catching a good bit of traffic.

Gunks June 23-24

I drove up Saturday morning and met Virginie around noon at the Stair-master. The sun was still blazing and temps were in the low 90s.  We warmed up on Birdy Party, each taking a lap. I then put up Co-ex and we took a lap on Try Again. Then took on Something Interesting, V lead the first pitch and i went to the 3rd pitch chains. The first time I actually did this pitch.  Virginie then led Drunkards Delight. I finished the day on Son of Easy O.  We picked up some wine and burritos downtown then made our way to Jannette’s for the night. On Sunday I climbed Thin Slabs and bothered to do the last pitch, for the first time I was up there I think.  Virginie then lead Sente and then Snooky’s. I lead Friends and Lovers. We then tried out Hawk. The first time I did that one. It was a wild long easy climb, a real adventure. We washed off at Split rock and I made my way back to Philly.

A Sunday Afternoon

I made it up to the Gunks for a few hours on June 12th and climbed with Brian Todd. We decided to try out a two overlooked gems. We got on Last Frontier and Bragg-Hatch. Both climbs were relatively short with their own crux sections.  Both had distinctive sections but were of lower quality once you’re 35-40 feet up.  Last Frontier takes some creative problem solving to get out of the wide crack. a #4 in the back of the corner was nice, a .75-2 were most helpful. For Bragg-Hatch, some small wires, a Yellow C3, Red C3 and blue-green aliens at think crack were helpful. I was able to fish in a pretty good red offset nut before pulling into the low roof.  After the finger traverse right, use both cracks to make a committing stand up to the fat horizontal that takes a #2.

First Gunks 2016: April 23,24

first trip to the gunks this year. I stayed at Laura’s by myself Friday and Saturday night, Emily stayed home to do some school work and rest through a cold.
Saturday: April 23: I dropped off some gear that didn’t sell at the AAC story swap at the Annex and was happy to see Emma working there. Sounds like I already have $12 at R&S. I met up with Virginie at the stair master and hiked up.There is a falcon closure from Laughing Man to V3, a large section of cliff. We went to the Arrow wall. I lead both bitches of Limelight and Annie Oh!, pitch one of Proctoscope, TRed Feast of Fools. Virginie lead both pitches of Arrow. Then we split High E. I took the top pitch (we really flew up that). Amazing weather.

Sunday: April 24: I met up with Julia at the Stairmaster and hiked in to avoid the crowds. I lead Wasp, Frustration Syndrome (and took a TR lap on that too), Spring, then first pitch of Airy Aria.

My calves are really tight, finger tips are raw…Time to get back in it.

 

Return to Mt. Gretna

Emily and I drove out to Mt. Gretna and headed right to the IT area. I warmed up on the tall crack boulder. Emily did a good job spotting me on my first 4 attempts, before I linked the whole climb together and got the send. We met up with Craig and Sam over at Smiley. They were stoked on their sends of the sit start of body slap. We worked Smiley but only Craig climbed it. I got pretty far and now it’s coming together. One more day on it and I’ll send. Emily and I walked around the trails for a while befe heading home to the animals.

Mt. Gretna

Headed to Mt Gretna on March 19th. Dave drove myself, Mazy and Pig. The weather was pretty cold but we had a good time. Warmed up on Body Slap, worked IT and Smiley. Dave was able to finish the problems. We ran into Char, Kate, Sam and Jess while we were out there. It’s good to get outside early in the season and feel the rock destroy the skin on my fingers.