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Gunks, first weekend back

April 21, 2009

Ah, the gunks. My current and long-time home crag. Even if it’s 3 hours away, I still consider it home.

I drove up Friday April 17th with Jules, Jonny and Blue. We got to my sister’s a bit before 11, had 2 beers and went to bed.  Saturday we met up with Brian and his brothers and headed down to Airy Aria (5.8). I went up both pitches with Jules. Brian put up the 5.10 around the corner. I took a TR lap on that in between TR attempts at Up Hill All the Way (5.12-) which Johnny was able to put up.  Up Hill All The Way is definitely one of those climbs I’d like to take the sharp end on one of these days, when I get much stronger. We headed down to the Seasons, Brain put up Oblique Tweak which I took a ride on before throwing myself onto the challenging Winter (5.10+). Unfortunately, I didn’t finish the route. The gear was not inspiring in the thin crack (Grey Alien in the finger crack, marginal Blue one below it) and I didn’t have it in me to commit to the next few moves, not knowing what lay ahead. I ran up Bold-ville (5.8) to get my gear back.

Sunday April 19th.

Brian, Don, Jonny, Jules and I headed to the Nears. Again, the weather was perfect. I did the first pitch of Broken Sling (5.8) and Brian did the first pitch of Criss Cross. In the future I’ll need to remember not to go up to the slings on B.S. which end up breaking the route. A lower hand traverse looks preferable.  Jules and I went and practiced leading on the spectacular Gelsa (5.4) which traverse some easy ground into a corner.  Despite the corner this is a very exposed airy climb. Jules did her first Trad climbing on Pitch 1.  Ah, and early end to the weekend. We left around 4 and got back to philly before 9!

Lessons learned:

  • I’ll need to start carrying more biners and slings for long routes.
  • Bring sunscreen and bug repellent
  • Get Jules’ video of Jonny’s awesome whipper on UHATW.
  • Bring Double .75 Purple Camalots if I get on UHATW
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From → Climbing, Gunks

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