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New River Gorge April 25

April 27, 2009

Aaron on Pockets of Resistance

Aaron on Pockets of Resistance

Day 2 of climbing at the New. The sleeping bag is too warm and I think I sweated more over night than I did at the crag. It’s gonna be another hot day. We grab breakfast at Cathedral again and get the typical southern slow service.  We drive back up to Rogers to climb at Kaymore.  Jules Leads Rico Suave (5.10a) and I do a warm up.

Russ on Rico Suave

Russ on Rico Suave

We head around to Pocket of Resisance (5.12a), Dave and Russ have a go and decide they hate it.  A ninja finishes the route, Jules TR’s up and camps out on top to take pictures of me.  I make a serious go at it, falling before clipping the 4th bolt and taking a good fall. Jules comes down, Dave TR’s back up (to replace the draws) and after too short a rest I get back on it. Fatigued I need a quick rest at bolt 4, but fire though the last move with ease.  I’ll need to come back in cooler weather with more time to work the thing.  I think the last time I was on the route was 2002, hopefully I don’t wait another 7 years.

Aaron nearing the top of Pockets of Resistance

Aaron nearing the top of Pockets of Resistance

We head down the wall and get on Green Piece(5.10b) and Low Voltage (5.10b). We get on The Bicycle Club (5.11d/12a) for some wankery.  I walk around and check out the rest of the area. I’ll have to spend more time ticking the routes at kaymore. Some how it’s a short day and we’re ready for Pizza and Pies. BonFire at Roger’s again.  Lots of Philly, Ohio folks in for the sunny weekend.  I again, skip the shower and settle in for a hot night.

Things to remember:

  • A blanket, pillow are better than a sleeping bag sometimes.
  • Beta for pockets-Bolt 1: Big left side pull, Clip Bolt 1. Go out right to crimp, work feet, undercling right hand, left hand crimp, move up to clipping slot, clip Bolt 2. Go up to right facing feature right toe in high where right hand was, tension, right hand up to right facing crimp, Clip bolt 3. Go left hand up to good pockets. Right foot/hand match. Clip bolt 4 from below. Left hand to middle of a good hold. Right hand to under cling/side pull crap. Right foot up. quickly get left foot up, Left hand up to the lip and get ready to make a big clip.
  • The Bushwacking between Rico Suave and the other buttresses isn’t that bad, but surely can be worse.
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