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Gunks May 2

May 4, 2009

Despite the bad weather predictions I drove up to Lagrange, NY Friday after work. Rico and I watched the 2nd half of Chuck and Larry (which kinda sucked) and I went to bed early.

Saturday, I renewed my year membership for $90, met up with Brian, Russ (todd) and Don. We went over to MF.  I lead Russ up both pitches. This was the first time I’ve been on MF. I did not find it as hard as people say.  A tricky move around a corner using an undercling/sidepull, a big reach before the the anchors, and another reachy move over the roof on the 2nd pitch.

Feeling amped we headed over to the Corners, Ant’s line and Bonnie’s Roof.  Don and I found our way between the Russian’s ropes and headed up to do Bonnie’s Direct. Unfortunately Don had a gear snaffu and had to hang on P1. I had a routefinding snaffu on P2 and took a hang.  The climbing up to the roof is pretty easy, place a #3 Camolot in the roof, slot a nut in the finger crack, left fingers in the crack,… fuck if I know what’s next…Don cruised it using a right hand up to a hold out right on the edge then bumped his left hand up to the jug, I french freed it. 😥

Don and Russ took off after we all did Bonnies. Brian and I headed back to Coexistance (5.10).  After a few falls at the crux, Brian found his strength and finished the route.  I TR’d and cleaned the line. It’s actually pretty stout for the grade and some of the holds are very slick.  The crux is protected by 2 old pitons you can back up. I worked through it using crimps and a high foot, though people say there is a sequence. Russ and Dave (todd) came up and TR’d the line.  We hustled out, grabbed some slices and saw the slideshow at Rock & Snow.  I bought 2 micro nuts and a trango ballnut. Exciting new gear.

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From → Climbing, Gunks

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