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Gunks May 3

May 4, 2009

Again, despite rain in the forcast, Brian and I headed up the stairmaster around 9:30 and got right on Commando Rave. Brian lead and I followed the long unprotected traverse and teired roofs. The exit move is definitely the crux.  We headed over to Triangle so I could get a lead in. Triangle is mostly a big blocky feature with sharp rock. At the top of the Triange there is a roof with lots of marginal gear. I think I put in a horizontal nut, clipped one of the old pitons, put Yellow and Blue aliens in shallow opennings in the cieling crack and weaved a cluster fuck together.  Above the roof are some more horrible pitons but better gear as well.  Pretty easy moves for a gunks 9. There is some good face climbing before the anchor.

We headed back toward Balrog and it started raining. We took a TR on Country Roads (5.10+/11b) that Jonny put up. Moderate climbing up to a fixed nut. Thin climbing up to another fixed nut in the cieling. traverse left to 2 crimps (somehow clip a cluster of slings and bail ring). Right foot heel hook/toe cam. Right hand to pincher sloper, pull, left hand right above the nest to a large finger eating side pull, stand up.

Brian and I hung around a bit more and I decided that Balrog was dry enough to try. An excellent idea. Bring some small gear, the thin crack takes a black alien and MY NEW BALLNUT! super.  The crux goes as follows. Left hand undercling. put in a red and grey alien into the finger slot above, don’t worry, there is plenty of room for your hands.  Get your left hand into the horizontal with the gear. Reach far up right into the corner and find a two finger pocket for your right hand.  ooooh that jug out left looks huge but how to get there? I smeared struggled to get my feet up on the right facing block, settling for a knee and reaching up left. grabbing at air, a few crimps, I fought hard before falling. oof, good clean fall.  Ok, quick rest and try again. I worked the lay back harder, got my feet up higher, but there is a paradox. The more you lean out, the higher you get, but it won’t get you closer to the hold. I just had to use some power and pull through. Oh, what a relief to grab it, slot in a #9 nut (sits perfect!) and finish around the corner in the light rain.

I’ll definitely have to head back to that area, get on Balrog again. Turdland will have to wait.

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From → Climbing, Gunks

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