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Rumney May 25

May 28, 2009

Russ and I decided to do a 3 pitch linkup up the main wall. I lead Underdog (5.10a) and Russ lead up the Via Ferrata (5.11c) pitch. We were completely confused upon reaching the ledge and gave up trying to find The Thing.

We headed over to Bonsai. We both lead Masterpiece (5.10a) and played on Pretzel Logic (5.12a) before high tailing it to Philly.

Beta for Via Feratta: Finish Underdog and traverse over two sets of anchors, starting just left of the 1st bolt. This is a crappy hanging belay.  First Bolt can easily be reached from a safe stance, 2nd bolt can be reached from good holds easily. The climbing is steep and the holds are obvious. Go big for the mail slot, it’s big enough for both hands. Try to clip bolt 3 from here, though feet are bad. Traverse right on good holds. Heel hook left to clip the next bolt. Swing a right heel hook to a small ledge, find the bomber right hand hold/side pull. Get up over the ledge. Clip one more bolt and head off right to the giant ledge/belay.

Beta for Pretzel Logic: A couple big moves, clipping bolts on the ceilings.  Grab the horn and a right hand crimp next to the bolt. If you’re hanging draws you may want to skip clipping bolt 3 for now, otherwise clip from the horn.  so: right hand crimp, Left hand pinch. Crank up for the next right hand crimp and it’s neigboring left hand pinch. The feet are crap here and you’re probably swinging off a smear on the left facing face under the roof.  Get your foot up to the horn. Get the sloping flat surface and relax with the foot on the horn, Clip below you. Next section isn’t hard, but it’s balancy. Find your feet and keep your weight out left. There is a right hand crimp high in the corner, Fire around the edge for the bomber lip. Big holds are up on the dirty ledge.

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