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Gunks, Near Trapps, May 30

June 1, 2009

Brian, Russ, Dave and I headed over to the Nears. Tommy Caldwell beat me to Birdcage, so I hopped on Roseland (5.9) with Dave. We then Top Ropped Shitface (5.10) which might be a bit run out on lead, but I think there is good gear before or just under the crux moves, it would be worth leading. Brian and Russ did Transcontinental Nail Way (5.10) and I lead it next. Unfortunately at the last roof I cut left to the original aid line and failed to find my way to the anchors without a hang. There is definitely a much harder 5.10 move this way though I failed to see the big holds back out right until I sat down in my harness.  JOhn Heppolette met up and took a ride on the route. Russ, John and I went ove to BirdCage (5.10b) and I rocked it. The crux moves are the thin traverse out to the manky fixed nuts, the committing undercling/pinch/wtf layback to the jug horizontal is super exciting. Some hard pulling ove the roof, then there is a stance. WOOT.  Unfortunately, the 1 nalgene and Vit Water I brought for hydration were long emptied and we were all hot and thirsty. We headed on out to the Deli for drinks.

Oh, I also scored a BD biner that fell off the top of Gelsa and landed feet from us, bouncing off a rock. Hmm, bail biner or key chain.

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