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Gunks, the Trapps, May 31

June 1, 2009

I ran down to the Visitor Center and got my pass laminated, now it barely fits in my wallet. DOH.

I met up with the Todd Brothers again and were joined by Thea.  We headed over to Feast of Fools, (5.10) (Brian Lead Nurses Aid (5.10c), good job dude)  I thought FoF would be a fine warm up, I guess my head was inflated after doing the 10s  the day before. FoF proved to be an exciting warm up and I blew the Crux and took a short fall onto the pins. Thea gave me a good catch.  Unfortunately I exited out Right, leaving the dihedral after climbing through. I’m still not sure what’s in the dihedral to pull on, but will need to head back.  Thea, of course, cruised right through the climb on lead. WHOA! After my sloppy lead on FoF I figured I’d step it down. I headed over to Proctorscope (5.9+) with Thea. There is a thin face crack move. It’s super unsecure, with smearing feet and a pin well below you. I stuck a yellow alien in the finger crack so had to move forward with out the use of the only large hold here. It went fine and I was relieved to get to the bolt anchors on FoF. From there I decided to keep going to the GT ledge, as described in the guide book.

Unfortunately I couldn’t make my mind up and chose the “left facing corner” through the roof (I was later informed this is P2 of FoF).  I got some gear in the under cling and my Ballnut in the thin vertical crack of the shallow dihedral. I went for it. Undercling to a horizontal, Right foot to corner of the feature for a small smear. Up and out right. Left foot up to the horizontal, left hand up to a flat rail side pull. I crank up reaching up right and find nothing, my foot is up high and I’m laid out. I don’t find any purchase and my hands start sliding. FALLING. Though the gear is esentially only a foot below me I fall close to 20-30 feet. Most of the fall is clean, but I catch my feet on the slab below and flip, hitting my head. Thankfully the helmet was on. I go back up and try the moves again but realize I don’t have it in me, to  commit to the moves and risk another fall like that.  I lower to the chains and belay Thea up. She rocks right through the crux. I follow but can’t get my Ballnut out (do I even want it?). I find my way up just fine.  Another climber retrieved the Ballnut and returned it to me. The wires were bent and there is a twist in the unit, but otherwise looks fine (?).

Thea then Redpoints Nurses Aid and I follow her up that. What a climb! a delicate face move below and then big moves to decent holds through the steep roofs.

I left around 3pm and headed back to philly, getting back in time to roll. 153, not bad.  Brian let me know Thea ticked off Balrog and Never Never Land, it’s great to see girls getting on these bold lines.


From → Climbing, Gunks

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