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Gunks June 13

June 15, 2009

On saturday morning I woke up especially early and ran out the door to meet Brian. He had a 3PM turn around time. Unfortunately that didn’t give us time to let the rock dry out after heavy rains all week.  We picked some modest climbs and had at it.  First up was No Glow (5.9+). I lead the first pitch up to the GT ledge and was absolutely miserable grabbing mud and had water running over me frequently during the climb.  Brian took the sharp end of the 5.9 pitch, easily reaching up the crux and cruised the thin face climbing above.  The reach was farther than I remember when I lead it back in 2003(?).   On rappel i scoped a possible backup for the second pin, maybe a .5 cam just under the pin.

We rapped to the GT ledge and headed to Keep Strutting (5.9). The climbing right off the GT ledge is bouldery, I continued out right so I could get another piece of gear in before pulling the roof. From here there was a chance to put in one more piece of gear before the 20 feet of face climbing to the bolt (brand new and raised to above the crux move of the face). If you fall before this bolt you’d definitely eat shit on the GT ledge. With luck you would fall PAST the ledge, but that would be a gigantic fall and fuck you up as well. NOTE, the move before the bolt is a solid 5.8 move.  From here the climb gets hard, there is a thin horizontal to follow out left, Place a yellow (maybe Grey is better) alien out left and GO. I was already pumped from placing gear bet for it anyway. I felt the “jug” at the end of the traverse but knew I couldn’t pull it. I took a hang while the gear was at my waist. Even with the rest it’s a pumpy few moves, the feet are just not there. (a purple alien in the pod after the roof traverse is good)  Good holds lead to a rest or belay. I set up a belay and brought brian up who finished the last 30 feet of climbing, cutting out right after the corner crack. The direct route after the crack looks very difficult.
We came down to the ground and I pounded a quart of Gatorade. We had an hour to burn, so we ran over to Ant’s Line (5.9) and I fired up it. Last time I was on it I think I had to hang below the crux. I had remembered the climb to be relatively easy and comfortable for the grade so last summer’s FAIL was a sad reminder of how out of shape I’d been. On saturday I rocked up the climb with confidence and barely a pump.

Brian took off and I picked up a Rollins from the deli but they were out of rolls and had to get a wrap 😦 . I headed to Split rock and watched some girls sunbath while I ate half the wrap and then ran up to LOST CITY.

Lost City doesn’t have any published guides so it’s pretty much a chose your own adventure kinda thing. I did run into Thea climbing with the dude from the gear store on a not-so-wittily named climb called Black Crack. She informed me the other crack I was scoping went at a heady 5.10. Right near the end of the trail there are more than a few welcoming cracks of all sizes.  I think we’ll check it out next weekend. Also of note, I saw lots of Black Snakes in the short time i was up there including a 5 ft black snake as I was running down the trail. I screamed like a little girl and nearly caught it under my foot.

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From → Climbing, Gunks

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