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Gunks June 14

June 15, 2009

It rained HARD Saturday night and brian and I decided to take a late start. I was up early and got to play with Jonas and watch some Sesame Street.  I left Laura’s around 10:00 only to find the Mid-Hudson was closed (jumper). I drove all the way down 9 to the Newburg bridge and came back up the thruway to new paltz. I got into town around noon and met up with Carl and Virginie. I scoped Jean (5.9) and determined it was too wet to take on. I lead Son Of Easy O (5.8) in one pitch.  The bottom was wet and again I felt insecure and placed gear every 3 feet waiting to slip off.  The roof at the second pitch is exciting after 140 ft of mixed wet/dry climbing.  Brian met up with us and he decided to give Jean a try. Brian gave it a good go and took a good fall after pulling the roof.  He went back up and found the better gear (purple camalot and a grey alien in a pod in the ceiling). He stuck the crux and found the feet in the ceiling and finished the pitch. I cleaned on Top Rope and battled my way through the roof. Had I not been on TR I would have shat all over brian. The holds in the ceiling were wet and the rail after the lip is rounded and not great. The “jug” horizontal is a big throw and was full of mud. Never-the-less I jammed an arm in and got my way up.

We headed over to P-38 and I racked up despite the water dripping out of the crack (5.10b crack? wet? no problem). Actually I couldn’t see myself throwing to the next hold when all the others I was grabbing were wet so I backed off. Brian eagerly racked up and lead the route (hanging at each of the 38 original pin placements). I was able to climb it fine on TR, but had to work very hard. The Crux is at the top of the crack and was extremely difficult to pull with the wet hands and no usable (read: soaking wet and slicker than ice) foot holds.Somehow I managed but was beat. I cleaned the TR and waked off.  Twice while Brian was leading we had ladies walk by and say “You’re Nuts.” Exact words, both times.

We headed over to Red Cabbage (5.9-) near Herdie Gerdie/ Dirty Gerdie. Red Cabbage is a thin hand crack on left side of the the north face of the Gerdie pillar. I got to the top of the crack and cut right on the pebbly bulges. I wish I still carried Tricams.  Cams are extremely difficult to place in some of these pebbly conglomerate horizontals, but you know a tricam would set perfectly. Again, the route had its wet spots but was climbable.

We TR’d the right edge of the Gerdie face up very thin features. I think the guide book gives this a 5.10+. Gear would be difficult to place. Still for a top rope it was very fun to pull on thin crimps and check out the edging power of my Optimus Primes. No way would I have finished the climb with the Moccasims.


From → Climbing, Gunks

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