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Gunks August 1st

August 3, 2009

I came up to watch the dogs and get a bit of climbing in.  I met up with John and Phil. I warmed up by leading V3. Of course there was lots of rain on Friday so the crack/roof crux was wet. Never the less I sucked it up and climbed through.  I headed over to Balrog to try and get the redpoint but blew it.  I went up twice and figured the beta out. A higher and further than comfortable right foot may be the key to getting my left foot onto the small nib just below the mail slot. I will wait for dry weather and pants (for a possible knee smear) until I get on this again.

After the balrog disappointment I headed over to Dry Heaves. It had been a long time since I’d been on that one and found it fun and thoughtful.  The crux undercling is excinting for a move or two.  I sunk a #4 camalot at the crux making it save.  I think a 3 could fit further over to the right.  The rope got stuck behind the flake corner and was a bear the rest of the way up.

Gear Beta for Balrog: grey alien on the right side, Red on the left. A nut after the crux. A nut fits at the top of the crack. A 00 C3, ball nut in the crack, medium cams below. Nothing larger than a 1 is needed.

Gear Beta for Dry heaves: 1 full set of cams, #4 under the roof a 00 C3 went in the ceiling as well.


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