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Rumney August 8-10th

August 11, 2009

On Friday Russ, Rory and Julia piled in my car and we headed north for New Hampshire. We cruised up 95, the GW and parkways up 91 to Etna where Dr. Dan lives.  (hehehe Woodcock). We stopped in Hamdon’s SBC.  Dan had been away getting shoulder surgery so we let ourselves in and retired.

There was perfect weather Saturday. After a great breakfast at Lou‘s we headed to the Rumney.

We were welcomed by a helicopter and 2 ambulances. A climber was injured when a tree fell off the top of the parking lot wall. An EMT was also hurt during the rescue.  The injures sound somewhat serious but both individuals are safe and on the road to recovery.

Rory and I warmed up on Polly Purebred 5.10c as Jules and Russ warmed up on Metamorphosis 5.8+. We then headed over to Waimea. I got flashed pumped at the last bolt and fell before clipping it, I hopped back on the route and finished it off with ease.  I waited my turn and went for a redpoint blowing it again with a mind fart.

We walked over to Technosurfing. Russ showed us how it’s done with the entry start. I pumped myself out working that and barely made it up the ladder and 5.8 section before giving up, feeling completely worked for the day. I bailed before the crux, unable to even pull on draws.  Not a good way to start the trip. Jules and I headed off to Triple Corners for some easy ticks before going home.  Half way through our barage I spraine my finger pretty bad. Jules even heard it rip from the belay.  Unfortunately Russ and Rory had my rope bag with my tape.  I maned up and finished the route and one more before it got too dark.

We drove back toward Hanover and stopped at “Margaritas” for Mexican, margaritas and beer.  I’ll be Yelping about that.

Saturday night Dan was back with Cosmo, his lovable black lab. Unfortunately Cosmo wasn’t feeling well and suffered seizures Saturday night and kept me up late. Poor boy.

Sunday Morning we said hello to Dan and I met Cosmo before going to breakfast. Bob met us at Dan’s and we picked up Bagels at the Bagel Basement.  We met Brian at the cliff and headed up to Jimmy Cliff. There was some rope confusion but we made due and things worked out. After Brian, Bob, Jules and I were done with Jimmy Cliff we went to Waimea for a redpoint. Bob onsighted the climb and brian walked it. I got my Redpoint even with the sprained finger (still wrapped up tight).  We took turns climbing Great White (5.12d) just to the left of Waimea. It’s an impressive climb with had crimps, big moves on a tricky steep face.  I didn’t have much luck with it at all.  By this time it was dark and starting to rain. We headed back to the Armed and Dangerous area where Russ Lead Armed and Dangerous with Julia and Brian checked out Cereal Killer.  Due to the rain and rush, he cleaned the top of the route and TR’d the opening moves through the first 3 bolts to grab the draws.  CK should be doable when it’s light and dry out.

We headed over to the Lucky Dog for dinner, ate lots of Cheese and went back to Dan’s.  Unfortunately Cosmo wasn’t doing much better and we had to carry him back inside after he passed out on the lawn.  I fell asleep immediately after a shower.

Monday Morning we went back to the Bagel Barn and went to the cliffs. The weather was hot and humid and the rock was wet in most places. We got some climbs in on the main wall but decided against getting on Tropicana which was pretty damn wet.

We parted ways in the parking lot and hit the road. We stopped at the Harpoon Brewery on the way, unfortunately tours are only Thursday through Sunday. We took the self guided tour and sampled a few beers. We headed down to New Haven for dinner at the Anchor Bar and got caught in a storm just north of NYC.  We made it home safe after midnight.

TICKLIST:
Saturday climbs:
Polly Purebred 5.10c
Waimea (5.10d) Did not send but tried twice
Technosurfing(5.12b) Barely tried.
Left El Diego (5.9)
Rack For Sale (5.7)
Technical Second (5.10b)
Trigger Happy(5.9)
Murk Trench (10a)

Sunday
Jimmy Cliff
Junco (5.8+)
Lonesome Dove (5.10a)
Hammond Organ (5.10d)
Waimea (Redpoint)
Cereal Killer (5.11c) TR to bolt 3 and lowered.

Monday
Polly Purebred (5.10c) Followed Brian
Charity Case (5.9)

Fun stuff:
-Russ continued the tradition of leaving things in my car, at least this time it was a Beer.
-Fuck’it Bucket from KFC
-Beavis & Butthead christmas special on Youtube.
-Surfer FAIL, Dude, totally pitted like whoa
-John Tesh rocks the NBA theme

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