Skip to content

Long Weekend in New Hampshire-Aug 28-31st

September 21, 2009

Russ, Dave, Mehgan and I drove up to New Hampshire on a Thursday evening.  We made it to Dan’s in record time and slept in a bit. A leisurely breakfast at Lou’s followed and we headed up to the cliff.  We spent the next 2 days sport climbing and having fun.  Noted climbs included following Russ and Dave on Tropicana, onsighting Jolt, working the moves on Giant Man, blowing the crimpy start of Arm and Hammer and battling my way through the Smokestack corner. We even took a lap on Waimea again.  Friday night we ate at Molly’s and had Dan cook us up some BBQ Saturday.  I chased after a moose to get a photo.

We left Dan’s Sunday morning for cathedral. We did the Saigon’s and Turner’s Flake.  The saigons are pretty straight forward, clip pins to bolted Anchors. I’d recommend bringing cams #.5 to #2 for the crux, but the rest of the climb is protected on fixed gear.  Straight forward thin face climbing. On Turner’s Flake, I recommend large gear, the #5, #6 were well used and could be used in several spots so bring it if you got it. The end of the Turner Flake is the crux with a thin left facing corner protected by small 3CUs, Grey to Green.

We rented a cottage in North conway and it was pretty awesome. 2 bedrooms, we all had beds and watched The World’s Fattest Virgin.

On Monday Bob met up with us Sunday and joined Russ and I on Recombeast. Russ fired up the first 2 pitches of the climb to the bolted anchor before the beast flake.  I lead the flake which was super fun and easy once the first traverse is done. The Traverse can be protected from above. The traverse to the final belay was a bit thin, but safely protected from above by a fixed piece high in the flake. The chimney moves are not inconsequential either.  The final pitch was mostly lead by Bob who was too pumped to top out the last easy section, so I won having most of the last pitch on TR and I got to have the awesome top out.

A 9 hour slog back to philadelphia ended the trip with some delirious wrong turns.

Advertisements

From → Rumney

Leave a Comment

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: