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Gunks blitz September-26

September 29, 2009

Brian and I had big plans, but reasonable ones at that: Climb 10 climbs in a day.  The initial itinerary called for climbs 5.8 and under. We started early and made good progress on the first climb, Sixish, which Brian Lead to the GT ledge. We rapped and I tackled Drunkards Delight up to the GT ledge.  From there Brian took on Precarious Perch and I redpointed Jean. We headed back right again and brian cruised up The Morning After to the GT ledge.  We came down and I lead Rock and Brew, We TR’d Crusty Waffles and Brian headed up the Trusty Riffle off width.  By now we were both feeling a bit tired, but figured we’d give Anguish a go anyway. I stopped at the end of the first pitch, feeling cold and tired. All in all, we got on 9 climbs, TR’d one but linked pitches on 3 climbs… I feel like we got enough climbing in.

1-Sixish 5.4, Double pitch

2-Drunkards Delight- 5.8 Double Pitch-Sling the big block at the roof and go. There is a pin above the roof.

3-Precarious Perch- 5.9 One pitch- Spicy move on the face approaching the roof.  There is no chalk on the route making it exciting.

4-Jean-5.9 One pitch- The roof takes a purple .5 BD or a red alien (actually both at the same time works great). Don’t stop climbing until you’re through the roof 😀

5-Morning After-5.8 Double Pitch – A bit tricky with the overhangs, but easy and fun.

6-Rock and Brew-5.9 One Pitch- Gear on this one is spotty, try bringing a micro nut to protect the bottom of the long black crack. something smaller than a #4 BD micro cam. I jammed a yellow 3CU in but it wouldn’t have held. Above that I blindly placed a red 3CU, which may have been ok. At the pod before the crux I placed a purple alien, but perhaps a #2 would work too.  There is an undercling finger pocket that can be plugged with a red alien after pulling the first move of the crux.  From here run it out.

7-Crusty Waffles 5.10+ TR -this would be a deadly lead with more than one difficult move above gear (if we were placing gear). The thin face climbing onthis route is demanding, thin crimps, pebble feet and balance.

8-Trusty Rifle-5.9-One Pitch-This is a burly pull from the ground. Bring large gear (yes, the #6 would help). Jam, layback, Chickenwing, layback some more.

9-Anguish-5.8-One Pitch.  There is a tricky roof out of a dihedral with gear in the back, placing gear above the roof is hard, A Gold Alien found a questionable placement. The yellow mastercam in the back of the roof was bomber, but a fall would still have been far and dangerous.


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