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Haycock-Oct 4th

October 5, 2009

With little motivation and poor weather on Saturday I stayed local.  Russ eventually got over his hangover by noon on Sunday, so we headed out for a short exploritory effort at Haycock. The weather was just cool enough to enjoy the rock.  We bushwacked our way through the Hanger 18 boulders and missed the Caves Trail, ending up at Area 51. We did a few warm ups and went in search of  Little Fluffy Clouds: my planned project for the season.

I first tried LFC last year and thought it would be doable with some work. The holds were there, some big moves, a committing finish.  It’s given a V5, which is intimidating considering the number of V1-2s that kick my butt at haycock.  When we got to the boulder a lanky dude with a dog was doing laps on the problem. I thew down my oversized organic crash pad and started feeling out the first moves.  I figured out the beta I needed and moved on to the end of the route, a couple tough moves including a dynamic finish off a sloping pinch with feet low and below.  With every move solved, I only had to find the strength to put it together.  Bryce sent, Russ and I took a couple attempts and he quickly linked it all and sent.  I got on the send train and sent as well.

A season spoiled? I finished my project in a couple goes.  Still, it felt great to finish it.

Beta: Start on the undercling, High foot on the chalked up spot. Go left, match right hand on next hold.  Place right foot high on the wall and crank UP to the next hold. Left foot to pointed foot hold, Right foot on starter chalk. Left hand intermediate crimp, Go big to horizontal hold. Heel hook 2nd hold. Come into the right pinch. Swap feet and fix right heel on intermediate crimp. Crank up RIGHT hand to good hold. Left hand to small crimp. Place right foot on the horizontal, Get the left hand slopper. Place left foot on orange slopping area, right hand pinch, GO to the horn out left, relax, put foot up to the mini jug (toe or heel) and up to the finishing jug. nice.


From → Climbing, Haycock

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