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Joshua Tree 2-19-10

February 27, 2010

Bob and Tim Kemple met us in the morning, having drove in from LA and taken in 3hours of sleep.. I was up early and getting coffee ready, this time the pots were in the car. We made a mockery of breakfast, cooking up pancakes and Russ wrapped it in ham.  After a few hours of dicking around we met up with Tim and Bon at the Dairly Queen wall. A good recommendation on a windy morning.  There was a bit of a hike in (compared to most J-tree crags) but not too bad. The wall was indeed out of the wind, if not shady.  After Tim lead Frosty Cone (5.7) he left his slings and biners at the bolts for us. I lead the climb as well and then we top roped Hot Fudge (5.9R) right next to it. Brian Lead Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7) and Russ lead Bill’s Nuts (5.7). I cleaned the routes and down climbed the formation.  We hiked back to the parking lot and met up with Bob and Tim again. We discussed cougars and the possibility of going up White Lightning or Poodles are People Too. Though, due to the forming crowd at the base of those climbs we parted ways and climbed else where.  We ate lunch in the parking lot and I decided to go back to the Hall of Horrors to lead the Exorcist (5.10a).  The climb is approached up an easy 5th

class corner up to a platform at the base of the crack. I placed a #1 and belayed Russ up. While it was cold in the shade the climb was warm at the bolted crux. The high crimp, just out of reach for me, and easily reached by Russ and Brian. Never-the-less I succeeded and really enjoyed this short climb. We TR’d it and got the rope stuck on the pull. Definitely pull your rope off to the right, not straight into the crack and blocks left of the route. I climbed back up to the belay ledge and cleared the rope, and down climbed back to the ground.

Brian headed up Nurn’s Crack. A pretty fun 5.8 and though it was short, it was also fun.  The Hall of Horrors was almost empty except the 3 of us and a few guys running round and scrambling on the rocks. I decided to head back to the Exorcist rap station instead of jumping to the descent. This time we pulled the rope in the right direction.

We had a beer in the car and went to the Saloon for dinner.  We made another trip to Von’s and hung out at the fire again.


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