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Gunks Heat

June 22, 2010

Having been rained out last weekend I returned to the gunks despite the high heat. Saturday morning I went up to Feast of Fools and got the redpoint with Brian belaying. The gear was a red alien backed up with a yellow 3cu well below the roof. Above the first roof is a #3, then the #4 before the crux. Clip both pins, and a #2 higher up. I continued along the left side pulling another roof ending up just above the bolts. I moved back around, clipped them and lowered. Unfortunately I didn’t extend the chains and the rope got kinked really badly. We headed over to Face to Face and brian led all 3 pitches. The Face to Face traverse is pretty pumpy, it takes hand size gear, #1,.75s. The last pitch is exciting, taking really small cams in a tight finger crack. From here we headed down to the ground, caught Don’s epic ascent of Nurse’s Aid and went to the deli, split rock. Unfortunately the split rock parking lot was full and we had to hike down from the west trapps lot. We headed back in the afternoon to do Apoplexy but found it occupied. I headed over to Fetus and linked it up with Baby. It’s an exciting way to start Baby, most of the upper pitch is beyond dirty.

Sunday was shorter still. I went up apoplexy and nearly sweated myself to death on it. It was just too hot to be climbing. After I lead it (first time since 2003) we top roped the line just right of apoplexy. From here we went swimming.


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