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New River Gorge-Cambodia

June 29, 2010

I drove down Thursday night after a big storm blew through Philadelphia. Russ and I arrived in Summerville around 2:00 and checked in to the sleep in.  After a complimentary breakfast on Friday morning we headed to the Meadow.  Russ and I hiked all the way in to Cambodia.  The crag couldn’t be further.  We warmed up on “26” (5.10a) and Bounce (5.10c). Neither were very clean nor note worthy. “26” has a funky back step on to a giant flake. Cutting through the filth and hanging clipping the anchors proved difficult on both climbs.  We moved over to Body Count (5.11a) which was actually pretty good, if not short. Unfortunately I ripped a dinner plate off at the crux and failed to onsight the climb. The move from the positive flake/jug? is a big twist out left, a right heel hook/hand match and a crank up past the bolt, using intermediates as you grovel. The move is stiff for 11a.

We headed over to Flash Bang (5.11d) the first route you’d see when arriving at the Cambodia wall.  The climbing may or maynot be fun. Russ backed off the crux and I broke off another hold in the undercling/hueco while yo-yoing up to the 3rd bolt. This turned the whole thing into a fiasco. I finished the climb out, the crux is probably getting above the roof. I’m not sure I’d get it clean anyway. quite a big move…maybe it’s balancy? After pulling onto the ledge there are good holds to the top.

From there we decided to head back and explore the cliff line. We scoped out the water crossing to Area 51 and the Bubby Hole swimming/baptism area.  Further along the trail I came across a red blaze (maybe a property marker) and we followed it in to the woods.  We arrived at a huge roof with spectacular climbs not featured even in the new guide book.  It goes to show how big the New can be with lots more potential development.  We bushwacked on to the first buttress and hiked out.  A lot more hiking than climbing.

We met up with Jamie, Carl, Josh and Brian at Pies and Pints for pizza dinner. We headed back to the Sleep Inn and I crashed out pretty quickly.

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From → New River Gorge

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