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Military Wall Vs The Left Flank

December 3, 2010

Thanksgiving Day.  After the rest day I was ready to send hard. The 5.12 wall was baking in the sun. It was by far the hottest day of the trip and t-shirt weather.  I decided to deploy the “get on it” technique that worked well for me at the Zoo and I ran straight over to Tissue Tiger (5.12b).  I recalled the moves being doable and figured I’d havea good shot at it.  I hung the draws and took my time practiced the crux, noted the rest.  Second go was probably my best effort, I cruised to the crux only to blow it.  After a rest on the rope I finished up again.  I ended up taking another burn on it but felt shaky from the start and again failed to climb through the crux. I’ll head back to it when in the spring, or maybe try the other climbs to the left next time.  We cleaned up and headed over to Left Flank. Tommy and I got on Wild Yet, Tasty (5.12a).  We figured out new beta for the crux. Pretty much tossing the crap I had in my previous post. Clip off the middle of the crescent moon feature, dick around with the shitty crimps on top of it, go to the hole right of the bolt, up to the left hand 3 finger pocket, right up to the crimp, high left foot on top of the crescent moon, stand up.  Tommy and I both sent it our second go while guide book author, Ray Ellington, cheered us on.  From there we top roped Too Many Puppies (5.12a) which felt much harder than I remember.  There is a crux down low requiring a long reach high and right (use the white pancake to balance yourself before tossing). The top move requires balance and desperation.

After a fun day we had beers in the parking lot, swung by Miguel’s, tried the slack line, and cooked a shit load of turkey.

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