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New Memorial Day 2011

June 1, 2011

Went down to the New for the first time this year for what was my 3rd climbing trip of the season. Sadly the weather was a bit of a monkey wrench but we managed to find routes to climb each day. On Friday we headed to Kaymoore (rico’s dry). I lead Totally Tammy and gave Pockets two goes. I felt horribly out of shape on Pockets this time. We finished the day on Worlds Hardest 12a. Carl got the Red Point! I may have to try it on lead next time. It’s too difficult to TR through the roof once you come off. The climbing isn’t over after one pulls the roof either!

On Saturday we went for a very long hike along Fern. I put up the first pitch of Ritz Cracker for TR and brought Russ and Emily up the Star Trek Wall. We finished on Sacred Whores (which I didn’t even get clean!).

On Sunday we hit up Cotton Top. I did BioHazard and got muddy. I also flashed the 10 on the wall. We all tried Cottonhead but the finishing holds were just too muddy. Carl gave Psycho Wrangler two goes.

We packed up and headed to Lower Meadow and did Toxic Hueco. I think I have a good shot of getting it clean on another day. There is a lot of good climbing on that route. The Hueco provides an excellent knee bar, then there is some powerful traversing on generous holds. At the roof a bit of beta will guide you into the head wall. We tried Winter Harvest (5.10c) and failed to figure out what the hell to do. There is some real bullshit at the 3rd bolt.

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