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Another Week Day

April 22, 2012

I had to take a work call (that didn’t happen) before meeting up with Brian and Dave. They were setting up “Fancy Idiot,” another never done route. The route is just left of Bunny and goes at 5.6.
I ran around the Red Cabbage Block and set up a TR on Red Cabbage Right. When we were done playing on that Dave Broke down the TR and I lead Retribution again. The Green Link cam under the roof (right of the undercling) is a miraculous placement. A .75 works well there too. I set up a TR and we also had a go on Nose Dive. Brian went up Double Clutch and set up a TR over “Something Scary,” Another lost gem. The climb is mostly 5.5 up to a 5.10 roof move. Unfortunately the holds over the roof were completely dirty and needed to be cleaned. By the time we were done with that I had a TR set up over the Mental Block. Another set of climbs I’d never done. We got on the 5.12 that goes up the center of Mental Block, “Stupid Crack.” It was pretty fucking hard for me, pulling a move or two at a time. The crack was fridged and the holds sharp. We called it a day. A fun day, but no missions accomplished.


From → Climbing, Gunks

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