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Doubilissima, Still Crazy after All these Years.

April 22, 2012

On April 3rd I went up to climb with Brian and Dave and house sit for my sister. The three of us met up on Wednesday the 4th and headed to the High E buttress. Clearly springbreak was in effect, there were quite a few college climbers and old trad climbers out in the middle of the week. I laid claim to Doubilissima, a climb that I’ve been holding off for years now until I felt fit enough to onsight. From what I heard it wasn’t all that difficult, just pumpy, but on everyone’s favorites list. Other than that I barely knew where the line went. I scoped it out again from the ground, brian pointed out the roof to pull and without a warm up I jumped right on the climb as the sun was starting to heat up.
There are a few ways up to the first pitch but two clear lines. I think the Line on the left that takes you directly to the Directissima belay is the proper start, but last time I did that I found it tricky and thin with little gear. The obvious crack just to the right looked a lot easier and I hadn’t done it before, so I selected that path. There was a fixed nut about 15 feet up which I clipped and ran the rest of the pitch out until the ledge. Right off the ledge and at the start Directissima I fiddled in a perfect green alien, there is a tricky move off the ledge to the first good horizontal and another cam. I began making my way up and right to the roof, plugging a shallow orange alien in along the way. This section is steep but on positive holds with enough gear. Under the roof there is a bomber #3 placement. It’s tough to take a good rest here because of the angle and distance between the juggy horizontal and feet. I rested the best I could, pulled over the roof, plugged a #.75 and continued on up. There’s a stance of sorts and the angle changes from overhung to practically dead vertical. There are at least two pitons in this section and some mid size gear, a nut back up to the pin, a Yellow Link Cam behind the shittier piton. Despite the bulk of the climb being done I was taking my time and resting the best I can. At some point I decided to move on from my rest, reaching around for the next hold… I lost my balance, yelled “falling”, and grabbed the sling in front of my face. I let go of the sling and returned to my rest position like it never happened….but it did. I continued on to the GT ledge and built an anchor out of a #2, grey alien and a nut. Over the next hour (or more) I brought up Brian and Dave. I finished before the thermometer broke. Dave arrived to the GT sweaty and sunburned. I’m glad we climbed when we did.
Brian took the last pitch, which was actually really fun. We rappled down as parties continued to climb High E.
On the ground we tried a few new flavors of Raw Revolution Bars. We headed to the Mac Wall where Brian decided to tick off another random, seldom done line. “still crazy after all these Years” The climb is pretty moderate on fun horizontals and some hight stepping movement. There is a small run out before a horizontal which is right before the Curx. Brian side stepped the crux on lead and headed straight into the Something Interesting crack. We were able to set up a TR with some directionals and the Higher Stannard bolted anchor. As far as the crux “Still Crazy” goes, place as much gear as you can in the horizontal, probably yellow alien (or likely smaller). There are some thin crimps to help you get your feet in the gear horizontal, a thin right side pull helps for the next move to the good hold, another move to a right hand feature and another still to the horizontal of the “Higher Stanard” roof. Probably two body lengths between gear on 5.10 face holds.
We TR’d HS and headed out.

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From → Climbing, Gunks

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