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Red River Gorge Spring 2012 Gallery

June 29, 2012

Red river Gorge Trip

May 18-19 : Friday: Left Flank

 

Days before our trip I decided it was time to pull the trigger on a new car. The Volvo Wagon was traded in for a new Volvo Wagon. Quite the upgrade from the V50 to the XC70 AWD.  It’s a much larger, thirstier car but the AWD and high clearance would help us get in to (and out of) crags like Pendergrass Murray Recreational Preserve.

 

The trip also involved a massive Wholefoods Vegan Shopping spree to make sure we were stocked for the week.  We did pretty good with our food estimates and it worked out just fine.

 

Emily and I drove down on our own, making good time to Morgantown WV.   We stayed at the Comfort Inn we stayed at last time.  I’m not sure if the free breakfast makes up for the grungy accommodations… there is HBO and an ice machine so, I guess it’s worth the stay. Maybe I’ll read some online recommendations next time.

 

We took off early Saturday morning passing Russ and Steven in western WV.  We headed on to Lexington to pick up Nate and those guys continued straight down to Miguels. We planned on meeting at Left Flank.

 

At Left Flank we ran into Alex and Elissa.  We climbed Brother Stair (5.9), Face Up to That Crack (5.8), To Defy the Laws of Tradition (5.10a) and I TR’d Too Many Puppies (5.12a)

 

Upon returning to the car i noticed a bag by the rear door.  Nate’s new Laptop and iPod were stolen.  I’m not sure if the car was left open or the bag was left out but nothing else from the car was taken.   A disappointing way to start the trip for sure.

 

Russ crawled in my car and we headed to our cabin.  It was a bit of a wild turkey hunt trying to find our cabin. We eventually found Lakeside Dreams down a steep hill and across a lake.  The Downhill assist on the XC 70 worked like a charm.  Fortunately we found a better way in and out of our lakeside cul-de-sac.   We headed to Kroger’s and got some more provisions for the stay.

 

May 20: Sunday: PMRP

Our first day in and we chose to head down to North 40 and The shire.  We had a pretty high volume day. I gave  Amarillo Sunset (5.11c) another try but couldn’t get through the crux. This is an amazing climb, pretty demanding and had me fighting to get my feet up higher.

 

Curbside:  Sudoku  and Action of Apathy.

The Shire:

Rival Wall: Delayed Gratification, Rorchach Inkblot Test (5.8+) has a difficult start.

 

 

 

May 21: Monday: Military Wall

What a wet day! I set up Stay Left(5.10a) and got back on In the Light (5.10c) before heading over to Try All Things Considered (5.11d).  I had some trouble hanging the draws and didn’t get the red point. Nate gave it a go and topped out just as the rain hit.  We were able to get all our gear back down and got pretty wet and cold hiding out under Super Slab.  We eventually headed over to the 12 wall and played on Gung Ho and Tissue Tiger.  I hadn’t been on Gung Ho before but found it pretty damn hard, especially compared to Tissue Tiger. Maybe it was the damp weather….. yeah.  Eventually the rain subsided and we were done thrashing ourselves on the 12s.  I ate shit on the way down and ended up covered in mud so I drove home in my underwear and Emily’s running tank top.  Awkward.

 

May 22: Tuesday: Muir Valley:

Mostly Russ, Emily and I took a big tour of Muir Valley. That place is massive.  I’d definitely like to get back to the Bibliotec, the wall is really nice, pocketed and slightly overhung.

Bibliotec: These climbs aren’t in my guide book, but we did the ones on the right side

Animal Crackers: Kinda made our own way up these climbs.

The Great Wall: Glory and Consequence (5.7) Emily was able to redpoint this one. Her hardest lead so far.

Sunbeam Buttress: Moonshine (5.9+) Pretty thuggy getting over the roof.

 

 

May 23: Wednesday: Tower Rock

People were looking for a rest day but I pressured Emily to get try Caver’s Route with me.  We ended up climbing Arachnid and Africa instead.  I’m glad a brought the #6 in for Arachnid.  Africa takes pretty much #1, #2s

From the crag we drove straight to the Woodford Reserve distillery where we jumped a tour and got a free shot of bourbon.

 

May 24: Thursday: PMRP

The group headed into PMRP again for some bolt clipping fun. This time we headed into Drive-By Crag and Bob Marley. It was the hottest day yet for us but fine enough.   I wanted to get over to Bob Marley but was happy to warm up and have some fun at Drive-By.  I hung draws on Make a  Wish (5.10a) and Emily did a great job TRing it.  She definitely made progress on the rock over the week.  Check Your Grip(5.12a) had draws hanging and I gave it a go.  I think I did better on my previous attempt but this time I took a rest and found using small crimps through the crux.  I got stumped higher up though and gave up on making it to the chains.  I guess the beta after the crux is to move further Left of the bolt line to bigger holds.  I also gave a quick run up Whip Stocking (5.11a) which is pretty damn fun.  The crew was having fun on all Head and Shoulders, Yadda Yadda Yadda, and Primus Noctum.

 

We headed over to Bob Marley crag along the cliff line.  There was a party on Straight Outta Bettavul (5.12), my goal for the day.  I was able to give it a good go up to the crux.  Super fun jug climbing until the angle drops off.  I couldn’t make the crux clip, very frustrating.  I gave it a go and a whip or two before giving in.  The Knee Bar beta is good but left me just short of being able to clip.  I finished the day and trip on Toker (5.11a).  Toker starts with a step/lean across from a boulder to the wall.  The lower section is fun through a groove and gets increasingly difficult up to the chains.

 

Thursday night involved lots of drinking and shenanigans all around.  Half the Bourbon was gone.

 

May 25 : Friday: The long way home

Emily and I took off early in the morning, headed to Washington DC to meet up with the family. We took the scenic shortcut right through Seneca.  We stopped briefly to observe the cliff and the massive amounts of bikers.  There is a lot of rock in the seneca region, and if it wasn’t so damn hot I’d have considered getting out of the car for a hike. Unfortunately there was a business call to take and a long drive to DC still ahead of us.

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