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Gunks Sep 21-22

July 30, 2012

We met up with Stephen the Wizard on Saturday morning at the stair master and headed to the uberpooper area. Stephen wanted to get on Apoplexy and since it was open we hopped right on it. He then did Rhodedendron and we headed over to p-38. I’d forgotten the crux beta and had to come down to suss it out; black point. We moved on to Pink Laurel. Stephen lead up to the Jackie/classic belay ledge and I took the following pitch. I was shooting for the 5.10 variation but ended up just doing the 5.6 variation. For some reason I couldn’t remember which way was what after reading the 3 variations in the guidebook. The third pitch was fun regardless and I got to sit on a way cool diving-board flake. There is a rusty pin over the diving board and a ring pin out left, despite the airy traverse left and roof to pull, it’s very easy and well protected. We also got on Black Out. I lead up to the 3rd pitch and had a lot of fun on this climb, an interesting face down low, a good roof move, a hand traverse lead up to a rap tree. The 3rd pitch has some thin face climbing to a horn hold in the roof where a

bolt can be clipped. Stephen lead the last pitch. We called it a day, got burritos and beer.

Sunday was a slower day for sure. We went to the Volvo and saw the driverside tire was flat as it could possibly be with a flat head screw bit stuck in the tire. The drive home from the crag went well, so the tire must have deflated overnight. I got the tire fixed but only to find the check enginelight left on….guess that will have to wait. We met back up with Stephen and he lead Dry Heaves. Despite the heat I got on Balrog and got the redpoint. I forgot the gear beta so here it is again: Run it out to the crack. Mid/larg size nut for the right facing crack, put another nut in the corner before changing faces into the thin crack, place a small nut, ballnut or black alien in the thin crack. At the top of the crack there is a creative nut placement, worth bringing double sized large nuts, at the crux there is the red alien, after the crux is a large nut or #3 cam, Large cams are needed before the anchor (3,4). I put a yellow link cam in just below the rap tree.
Balrog rack: large nuts (maybe double up), tiny nuts, cams (smallest size possible, .4 or .5 for the crux, 3), backup slings for the anchor tree. We finished the trip off with a ride up Middle Earth.

Balrog, moving through the crux

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From → Climbing, Gunks

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