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Aid practice

August 14, 2012

The Wizard and I have our eyes firmly on Lurking Fear next month.  We’ll need a lot of practice in our Aiders before we attack this big wall in a planned two days.   We headed to Birdsboro on Saturday and fixed a line above the lower slabs.  We practiced jugging on the low angle and aiding on bolts.  I had some difficulty jugging over a roof.  I also practiced setting up alternative hauling rigs but they’re a big pain in the ass, requiring lots of space and more work.  I think hauling right through the minitraxion will be most efficient.

We headed to a way off corner of the Bird and practiced aiding on gear (clipping near by bolts…this is the bird after all and I refuse to trust that fragile choss).  The route was slighltly over hung and in a corner.  I had a hard time aiding on only one aider and no FiFi hook.  I quickly started clipping in short with a biner.  While climbing with one aider was easy enough on the low angle slab I had trouble stabilizing myself on the overhanging corner, impossible to get in the top step and a struggle to get in the 2nd.  The route did not give many options for putting my free foot onto anything near by.  Whenever possible I climbed above the aider with my hands in the crack.

 

Lesons from day 1.

-While aiding on low angle bolt ladder, use one (per side) aider.  For high stepping or overhanging routes, use a 2×2 set up.

-The multi-loop gear sling is a bitch(already knew this). It’s hard to swing around and access gear in the back.

-Use notchless, non-locking biners to clip the aiders to the piece I’m aiding on.  OR, get a large twist-lock biner. I’ll look into this.

-Wear pants and sleeves to avoid skin on rock scuffing.

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