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Gunks Sep 15-16

September 20, 2012

Emily and I met up with Stephen, Ashley and Mike Saturday Morning and headed in to the Trapps. We warmed up on Airy Aria and tried to find something that was open. The seasons were busy, Lance and Shwab were already half way up the Winter. We decided to keep moving on. I convinced Stephen to get on Simple Stuff and Mike to lead Falled on Account of Strain in one pitch. I followed Mike and then lead April Showers, getting the Red Point. We Then spent some time leading the Stand. Mike was able to get gear up to the crux and after some dicking around I decided to give it ago myself. I was stunned I was able to pull off the crux with my finger injury…Oh yeah, I was smart enough to slice off the tip of my right pointer finger the previous Friday in a kitchen accident. I was able to make the most of the tapped up finger on the crimp side pull.

A note on April Showers. I pulled the right-of-the-ground crux by using a tricky undercling on the horizontal and walking my feet up high.  The rest of the route goes at 5.10, with the next crux just after the shallow roof. Move Left for April Showers and pull the roof directly up for Golden showers.  I still don’t know the alternate start to these climbs or what the easy beta is.  Bring Gear up to #1, chain anchors.

At the crux of the Stand I did not put my left foot on before reaching the next hold and doing the “stand.”  Also, the gear after the crux is small, purple and green C3s.  Large gear (#3) is useful at the top of the climb while moving over to the Frustration Syndrome anchor.

On Sunday morning Emily ran and killed it in her 5k. Unfortunately the race results were slow it it took us awhile to score her prize: My Brother Bobby’s Salsa.  We had a quick lunch in NP and headed in to the cliff after stopping at the (still under reservation) Visitor Center. I practiced climbing in the full lead harness and TRing in my approach shoes on Baby and Belly Roll.  It was a fun weekend with amazing weather.

Next up: YOSEMITE!

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