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Persistence Lost City

September 20, 2012

A few weeks back, Andrew and I headed up for a day trip to the gunks to try out Persistence. Andrew was inspired by a few online videos and I’ve always been curious about this steep crack over a deep hole. Here are two videos of other people on the climb.

We got up to Lost city in pretty good time and headed over to The 10 Crack just north of the crevice. After some poking around I decided to head up the wide crack to the left of the climb and then onto the wall where the crack meets a horizontal. I immediately blew the first move gaining the crack but was able to right myself and finish the climb in good style. I built an anchor over the climb and we took turns TRing the crimpy, balancy route to the right of the crack. The TR was fun and the moves right off the ground are probably the hardest on the route. They can be passed by using the boulder off to the right and stepping over onto the wall.  After these warm ups we made use of the anchor on top of the pillar and cleaned the route.   Andrew then lead Texas Flake in good style.  The flake is shaped like Texas near the bottom and is a bit tricky to protect with small gear.  There is a traverse right and then a committing stretch up through the crux and up to the good holds.  I followed on TR, cleaned the anchor and walked off the climb.

 

We headed over to the goal for the day, Persistence.   Andrew decided to lead the thing from the bottom of the pit, we decided this would be the best style to climb the route.  He made it up to the crux, easy enough below that, and got shut down.  We agreed that TRing the route first would be a good idea.  Neither of us could make it up through the crux.  I gave a few good tries but found the crux too painful and just down right hard to get my feet up.  I surrendered.  Andrew stuck with it and decided to give it a go off the ledge behind the route. He pulled it the move and made the rest of the route look easy. DAMN.  Upon reviewing the online videos, this is clearly the preferred way to go.  Not only because it’s easier to get your hands into the crack/corner feature, but because you can start with your feet higher up on the good chips.  I’d reckon climbing Persistence off the ledge knock’s the grade down a letter or two.  Otherwise the crux is easily V4 or harder.

Anyway we killed a bunch of time on this and then hiked the rest of the cliff line before heading home.

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