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NRG – Nov 9,10, 11

November 12, 2012

I drove down to the NEW with Andrew Thursday afternoon after a long day.  We made it to Chestnut sometime before 2:00AM and set our camp up in the freezing temps.  After a restless night sleep we headed to the Cathedral for hot coffee, indoor heating and tofu scramble.    We picked the sunny cliffs of Summersville lake for the day.

There were a lot of down trees and a bit of snow on the hike in, the waterfall was in full blast.  Amazingly, we were the first one’s in to the wall on Friday and enjoyed a bit of solitude on the lake.   We warmed up on Make Way for Dyklings (5.10a), a very enjoyable warm up.  I then hung the draws and sent Satisfaction Guaranteed (5.11a).  Andrew onsighted Narcissus (5.12a) and I got my red point despite freezing hands and in ability to feel anything in my finger tips.  The holds are just that big on this climb.  We went around to Under the Milkyway (5.11d) and both got spanked.  Andrew actually did great and blew the on sight on easier moves at the second bolt, yet impressively sending the rest of the route onsight.  I took a whip at the 3rd bolt on an insecure move and later took a few rests higher up before finishing the route.  Andrew took a good burn on Apollo Reed (5.13a) figuring out the shield crux second go and worked out the higher crux after fewer than a half dozen tries.  I see a send in his future.   The sun was setting early in the gorge and we hiked out before 4:00.  We picked up some provisions at the gas station and cooked at the camp, in the dark cold night.

The rest of the Philadelphia crowd (Stephen, Ashley, Michael, Shawn, Ally) arrived late Friday night and we all enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at Cathedral. The Meadow was the day’s destination.  Andrew and I warmed up on The Wanderer (5.10a). Andrew took on Meathead (5.11c) for the onsight and I got the redpoint. I hung the draws on Skull in the Hole (5.12a) and failed to onsight it. Andrew Flashed the climb. I gave Strip Tease (5.12a) another go but fell at the crux and decided to bail off the long sling after climbing through it.  Andrew got the redpoint on Schneezal (5.12a) after working out the crux, lowering down and then onsighting the remaining 80ft.  An impressive go.  Fortunately Stephen came by to lead Schneezal and clean the draws after his amazing onsight of Push (5.12a).  Andrew gave Creature (5.12c) a good go and took some nice rides.  We wrapped the day up and headed out to Pies and Pints.  We ate in the back patio with the heaters on hotter than a brick fired pizza oven.  Andrew, Stephen, Ashely and I burned down the rest of our wood and we went to sleep.

On sunday we ate at the Vandalian.  Andrew and I headed in to Kaymoor. We warmed up on Rico Suave (5.10a). Andrew onsighted Pockets of Resistance (5.12a) and I took too good burns on it but didn’t get the redpoint, falling once at the top and on my second go falling at the bottom before climbing through to the top.  Andrew hopped on Out of the Bag (5.11d) but got shut down at the 3rd bolt.  I gave it a go and managed my way to the top after lots of hanging around.  After that we packed our bags and made the tiring trip back to Philadelphia.


From → New River Gorge

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