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Memorial Day Weekend

May 28, 2013

Emily and I drove up to my sister’s Saturday afternoon. The weather was pretty bad Friday and Saturday and I’m still not sure if I have the worst allergies ever or a head cold.  We got some indian food at watched Restaurant Impossible all night.  Blue slept on the couch and we got a good night sleep in.  On Saturday we started out on the over/under trial run.  Emily kept running but I picked up the camera and checked out the Nears. Surprisingly there were just two parties around.  I learned that if I unlock my car with the hard key the alarm will go off and the other doors will not unlock. Shit. Emily came back relatively shortly there after.  We went to the nears and I put up Layback (5.5)‘s first pitch.  It goes up funky chimney to a chockstone which can be slung. From atop the chock stone move out left to a vertical crack under the “layback” feature. There is good gear up to the flake, at the flake a #4 goes in (a #3 was useless). There’s a committing layback of 3 or 4 moves then you can pull in to the flake and climb it to the broken horizontals. There is a bail a

nchor at the top of the pitch with old webbing that should be cleaned up…maybe next time I’m up there I’ll bring some cord.

Emily and I got on Birdland next. I lead the first pitch, it takes excellent pro the whole way, with pins that can easily backed up. At the crux face I was able to put in an offset nut and a purple C3.  The Crux move features a high right foot, get your right hand on the higher sidepull (it feels good once you have your foot up high) and crank up to the next good horizontal.  I finished on the Bolted anchor out right from the climb and set up a TR. Emily gave it a good go but couldn’t get off the starting moves.  It must have been nearly 10 years since I last lead Bird Land but I think I’ll be back for more soon.  I do remember the second pitch being wild for the grade…I believe right before the belay tree.  Maybe I’ll do this one again next time I’m up.

I put up Grease Gun Groove trying to practice my nut craft and fast climbing (always a cam as the first piece)…I ended up throwing another cam in at the roofs higher up but I think I got 3 bomber nuts and the hidden pin. The crux is just off the ground.  I felt the webbing on the tree could also be cleaned up…again, I’ll bring some cord next time I come to the guns and try to pitch in.  We packed up and had dinner at the Gilded Otter and went back to let Blue out.

On sunday we went to the Lost City parking area early so Emily could get her run in. She had some trail finding problems but it worked out for the best, she got the opportunity to see a mamma bear with her two cubs! I’m super jealous.  Eventually climbers trickled in. We had a pretty big posse by the end of the day (Me, Emily, Andy, Don, Meghan, Craig, Lance, Jesse, Justin, Mark Shawab) plus there were other climbers in the amphitheater area.  I TR’d the 8 and the face just to the left of it, (right of the small tree up top. I’ve done the face up the lefts side with the power undercling, but this way had some weird sidepull beta, still lots of fun.  Mark Shawab had a TR up on the far right side of the Persistance face, starting on the arette.  The climb goes at about 5.11+/12 with horrible pro. Big props to Mark for leading it just last week!  We bushwacked our way to Wishbone and I racked up. I knew a bit of beta, foot above the head, bring a #4. Don helped me assemble the rack I’d need.  The crux move was a lot of fun.  We scoped out the neighboring “Cars that Eat People” and it looks like an awesome techy face with thin pro.  After that Emily and I walked out. I banged my knee up pretty good.

I continued to work my new TC Pros size up a half size from the Miura VS size 39.  I think they’re fine when pulled tight, but still don’t feel like a secure fit.  Only 3 more climbing weekends until the Big Wall!

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From → Climbing, Gunks

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