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NRG: October 4,5,6

October 8, 2013

After scrambling up some NRG plans it shook out that Brian and I would be heading down from Philadelphia Thursday night and meeting up with Bryce on Friday.  The drive was exhausting as I got on 220 going North by accident.  We got in to the AAC campground around 2:30AM.

On Friday I decided to hit up Kaymoor, Butcher’s Branch area. Brian and I warmed up on Green Piece (10b) and Low Voltage (10b). I gave Sancho Belige (11c) but took a fall this time. I think I previously got it, but without the draws hung or the right beta I missed a lunge to a good hold.  The top of the climb is also demanding.  Brian put up Boing (10d) and I lead it as well. We got on Tit Speed (11c) and I was happy to pick up the redpoint, thanks to Bryce for hanging the draws.  Bryce onsighted Bimbo Shrine (11b) and I top roped it.  We finished the day on Flight of the Gumbies (9). From there it was a trip to Pies’N Pints.  Brian and Bryce took a night time trip up New Yosemite over at Junk Yard for a full value.

Saturday was an adventure. I decided on hitting up the South Side Meadow Crag.  I’ve never been but the area looked good. To get there you take 19 to 60, and head north on Propps road, keeping left at each turn (out of private drives). The first bridge you come across should look like a horror show (not the nice one to the right…wont do that again). Instead of going over the bridge, drive above the waterfall to the right.  Keep going along the road as described in the book.  Once you find parking decide what crag to go to, they are NOT easily reached along a cliff line.  We headed up past the Brilliant Pebble and were immediately lost looking for Area 51.  Eventually we found some routes (Full Sail, Fat Crack and Beer) and continued on till we found Mud Hueco Wall.  We went up an easy bolted line left of Meadowbolic (11b). The unlisted route probably went at around 5.7.  Bryce put up Meadowbolic and I took a few falls at the crux before figuring out some of Brian’s beta and picking up the Red Point.  We went and The Radness (5.12a) a go. Bryce hung the draws and figured out the crux beta.  I gave it a good go but had to fall off the crux a few times. Brian tried it out and I went for a redpoint burn that was unsuccessful. Bryce eked out a redpoint.  The Radness goes up amazing steep, big holds for the first 4 bolts. The crux is clear from the ground, and is turning the roof on to the face. We implemented a high right hand on to the angling rail, a left heel hook, and crossing left hand to the top of the feature before moving your right hand to the good hold on the corner. After this Brian picked up his redpoint of Meadowbolic.  Despite the short day, we were tired from thrashing on the STEEP and through the woods.  We dropped the bags and explored southside, area 51. Area 51 is a far more impressive wall and worth going back to.

We cooked up some food Saturday night and shared some beers with a Colorado climber tripping along the east coast.

On Sunday we packed things up and headed to Whippoorwill. We tried warming up on Hat Change (10d) but I pretty much just pulled my bicep cranking on the move down low (after falling repeatedly below the first bolt).  I found this climb no easier than the next two climbs we got on.  Brian onsighted Nonameyet (11a) and Bryce did as well. I TR’d the route while the aspirin kicked in.  Nonameyet is pretty consistent climbing on thin holds until the crux/slopey small holds above the last bolt. Bryce gave Don Miron a go but fell a few times at the crux and wasn’t inspired for a redpoint. Masuko (11a) opened up and I got on it for the onsight.  Masuko has some fun moves around the second/third bolt along the left facing flake, again the hardest moves are on the poor holds going to the chains. Brian fell at the second bolt, but came down before heading to the top on a redpoint.  We were ready to head home and hit the road a little after 1.  Whippoorwill is a nice crag, easy to get to but definitely a crowded place. It gets a good bit of sun depending on the time of day. It’s possible to swim.  Given that the crag is underwater a good part of the year there are no trees along the cliff, so shade and cover are absent.  The terrain is rocky and bouldery.


From → New River Gorge

One Comment
  1. Bryce Randall permalink

    Right on!

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