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Lost City 11-23

November 29, 2013

Andrew and I took a road trip on a random warm day.  We went over to Lost City and hiked the trail directly up to Wishbone and Cars that Eat People. Andrew lead Wishbone and I followed. From there I traversed the lichen and loose blocks over to the fresh 3 nut anchor.  I was able to set up a top rope safely. Andrew and I each top roped Cars that Eat people and figured out the gear beta before we each took successful redpoint runs.From there we headed over to Persistence for another TR go. I set up the TR (next time bring some new webbing for the tree up top).  I built an anchor out of a 1,2,3 climber right of the bolted anchor.  Andrew TRd first and then I struggled to start the climb again. I figured out my beta and climbed without stopping, but with extreme flash pump and cold fingers. Around 3-3:30 the sun creeped away. Andrew tried TRing Survival of the Fittest but it was a half-hearted go.  We returned to Philadelphia for some Burritos.

BETA for Cars that Eat People: This climb starts about 15 feet right of Wishbone and behind a small tree.  Climb about 10-12 feet up to place a #1 Camalot (though there are other options) in the large horizontal. Another foot up there is a shallower horizontal that marks the start of the crux sequence. Place a Grey alien here. Bring hands up to loose block in the crack, get your left foot on the horizontal. There is a ticked foot out right, have left hand on side pull above the loose block and right hand goes out right to the side pull. Stand up and get the left hand into the finger sized pod in the crack. Feet come up again to the Grey alien’s Horizontal. Find the next right foot and then left again to the loose block. Right hand goes up to the undercling knob.  While standing on the loose block, higher right foot jib and right hand undercling, place the RED alien into the finger pod (there is still plenty of room for your left hand beside the placement). Left hand up again to a poorer crack, stand tall to the good right sidepull up right. There is another optional Red C3 in the crack just above the Red Alien, it’s a blind placement that is tricky to key in.  Using the right side pull and finger crack I put my foot up high in the middle and stood up to the second wide flare near the top of the crack. The first flare is a pebbly sloper and the second, higher one, has a good finger slot. Right hand goes out to the BIG right side pull (if you’re not already on it.) Find the good feet out right under the vertical crack that takes a Blue #3 Camalot.  Relax and put a .75 Camalot in the horizontal just left and above the cracks.  Climb up a bit so your feet are in line with the horizontal which turns to a shelf out left. This short traverse is thin and balancy but protected well by the .75. Climbing eases from here, but keep an eye out for loose rock. Our #4 was left up there but there is a range of bad placements. The anchor was backed up with a #2.

BETA for start of Persistence: Starting from the block get ready for a split, stretch and warm up.  Reach across chasm and dig your right hand in the crack where it widens. Pinky and ring finger dig in, and there is a thumb catch of sorts.  Throw right foot out to high ticked foot under the roof.  Left hand comes in underneath the right, either on the cresent moon crimp or into the crack itself.  Put left foot under the right. Hopefully you’re on the wall at this point.. Move your left hand up quickly to higher in the feature. Switch Feet for better positioning…Here you go, get your right foot up above the crack to the good foot and lay back the crack. Stand up and commit to the next horizontal…That’s it. Now just don’t get pumped on your way to the top.


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