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Gunks Classics 11-16

March 10, 2014

Russ and I took a day trip up to the gunks on what turned out to be an amazing day, very warm and but very crowded. We missed our chance to get on Shockly’s Ceiling so I warmed us up on MF. The lead went fine, but I forgot how hard the little roof near the end of the first pitch could be. This is definitely a classic. Russ gave the climb a TR burn and I TR’d the Direct variation.  I would have liked to TR it a few more times and gone for a lead but it was crowded at the mac wall. We packed up and did Shockley’s Ceiling. I don’t think I’ve ever done it before, or it’s been a long long time.  The five star climbing all takes place on the last pitch, through the roofs following a wide vertical crack.  You can rappel by heading south and finding bolted anchors above Ribs. We took 2 rappels with the 7om. Be careful to head around the corner on the last rappel on your way to the ground.  We headed to the Uber area and I lead Laurel and The Gerdie block.  Quite a nice day to get out.


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