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Busy Gunks Weekend

May 19, 2014

I finally found time to make it up to the Gunks for climbing nearly half way through 2014.  Julia let me know she’d be coming down from NH Saturday morning so I left Philly in the morning as well. I saw another long-time climber friend, Virginie, but we didn’t get to climb together.  Julia got to the parking lot around 1:00 and we headed up to the Trapps, looking for anything that was free. Remarkably the classic Son of Easy O was open and I lead both pitches as one on Julia’s double ropes.  Oh man, I forgot what a pain 2 ropes are. From there Julia lead City Lights to the chains.  We talked with Eric for a bit before moving on to another area, unfortunately we could not find a good open and dry (it poured pretty hard Friday) route.  I settled on leading Sente, a thin face protected by 3 bolts. I think the only reason it was open was there was a party hogging the higher/better rap tree and there was water coming down the face. I thought the lower part would be dry enough, but the little water there was seemed to be on any of the positive holds. Regardless, I pushed on slowly with shot nerves reminding myself that I’d climbed this route plenty of times without falling and I’d be fine if I could get to the first bolt…which of course was the wettest hardest section. We were getting tired and packed it in around 5:30. Julia and I had a beer and dinner at the Otter.  I went to Laura and Rico’s and had a few more beers before having to wake up for another day of climbing.


I got to the West Trapps parkinglot at 8:30 and the park was already putting out the Full sign. I parked in the 2nd to last available spot at the gate and met Julia atop the stair master.  The crowds seemed even worse.  Julia was able to lead Baby, and I lead the top pitch of it. Julia then got on another goal of hers, The Black Out, Julia lead pitches 1, 2 stopping along the way. I lead the final pitch to the top. We rapped over Betty.  From there Julia lead Horseman in a single pitch.  We finished the day up early and I made it back home before dinner!


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