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Rain at the Gunks

September 15, 2014

I met up with Virginie on Saturday morning and got a bit of climbing in. I lead the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere and over to a belay stance below the Shockley Ceiling. Virginie finished it up. There is a rappel from the top of Strictly that needs to get fixed up. I removed someone’s daisy and carabiner that they slapped through in a half-assed attempt to improve what was already a usable  sling & cord station.  By the time we walked over to the mac wall it started raining slightly. I contemplated a few climbs in the area but with the rain picking up i got on the first section of mother’s day party. It was quite wet down low but mostly climbable.  Unfortunately, it was wet down on the ground and we were getting all or gear soaked.  We ran into Don who bravely skipped brining a raincoat. Virginie and I took a long walk to Skytop (closed) in the rain and then I went and met up with John Hep, Mark Williams.  I headed back to Poughkeepsie and had dinner with Laura, Rico and Jonas.

Sunday was a perfect weather kind of day.  Virginie lead the first pitch of Moonlight and I took the second pitch. We then walked over to Doubelissima which was occupied by a party of 3. We kept going and I lead the first pitch of the Winter, the first time I got it clean.  The deep set Gray alien was nice.  We each took a victory lap and I moved over and lead the Spring. We moved over to Double Crack and Virginie lead it all beautifully. With one rope we were forced to hike down to High E and back to the bags. Someone was still on Doubelissima and I was feeling pretty pumped at this point in the day so we looked for something else. I decided on Simple Stuff, having remembered it to be pretty reasonable…however I did not think that yesterday as I got flash pumped after about 4 moves and completely turned around in the corner. Ooof, blackpoint! Finished the climb off though in the best style a I could muster and we were packed up at 5PM. Emily made me pizza when I got home. Good day.

Moonlight Notes:

Stay lower and look left at the traverse. There is a sad pin that can be backed up but gear is going to be absent until you’re around the corner.  The crack on the face is really nice and the climbing continues all the way to the top. Rap off No Glow. from the No Glow GT ledge rap you’ll need to down climb the last 15 feet with a 70m. Aim for the small tree (climbers right of the rap line) if you don’t want to down climb.

Winter Notes:

Bring small cams to protect the first section. Yellow and Red C3 protect the first hard move. At the large horizontal you can put a big cam (yellow link). Moving up the corner takes a good nut. The awesome finger crack takes a gray alien (maybe .5), it is best to place this piece using the small right hand crimp just right of the vertical finger crack. You can pinch up the outside corner, get a wide right foot, push over to the crimp rail out right. Move through more unsatisfactory holds to the pin. Climbing eases but another green link cam is nice to put in before the anchor.

Simple Stuff notes: What looks like a big horizontal from the ground is no good for gear, leave the big stuff. Put a yellow alien out right. Fight into a stance and get some good nut or C3. Move up to a horizontal, this is pretty tough climbing. the horizontal takes a bomber red alien slotted in from the left. Move boldly up to the next big jug out left. The under cling is irregular. Maybe fish in the green link cam or finagle a nut in there. I got a pretty good nut. Try to leave the higher slot open for your hands. A yellow link cam up high in the flared crack worked well. Chain anchors up high.


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