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New River Gorge: oct 23-25

October 27, 2015

I’ve been hoping to get back to the New this year and get on something new and something old. It’s hard being 7 hours from a climb you’d really like to get back on and finish.  I discussed a few routes with Russ and made sure we got on at least one of them.  The weather was looking good, we left Thursday night and stopped at Bryce’s on the way down.

fri 10-23-2015
We left Morgantown kinda late and got to summersville around noon. Russ and I were able to climb quickly, with relatively few people at the crag.  I put up personal pronoun / Menace Alert and Russ and I both warmed up on this classic twice.  Russ was kind enough to hang the draws and check out the holds for me on Under the milky way.  I was able to get this climb clean my first go of the day (I have tried it a couple of years ago).  Russ went up again and cleaned the route. Next up, I blew the onsight of minimum overdrive. The climb blew me away right at the first bolt as I muffed beta and was locked off on crimps for entirely too long.  I was able to get it clean on my second go.  Russ gave it one go on lead and another on TR.  The route has some traversing and a bit tough for 11a.  We decided on a cool down, I led Make Way for Dyklings, which I had forgot I’ve been on it previously. Regardless, I got it clean. Russ went up and cleaned the route.
After climbing we pitched tents at the AAC campground and picked up some liquor for Bryce.  Russ and I ate at Pies and Pints and Bryce met us at the Campground.

sat 10-24-2015

We had a lazy morning, heading to Cathedral Cafe for Breakfast. We picked a crag and after a quick stop into WaterStone we drove over to Cotton Top. We forgot where the crag entrance was but found it at the parking area, close to the entrance of the lot.

I put up Cottonmouth, Bryce and Russ also got it clean. I lead Bio-Slab, and Bryce and Russ lead that clean too. Bryce put up Cottonhead then took some photos of Russ and I getting it clean. Bryce attempted Psycho Wrangler, and I watched closely for any beta I could gather. I was able to flash the route my first go, which added to the enjoyability of this steep route.  From here Bryce hung the draws on Q-tip. Russ and Bryce figured the beta out for me and I was able to flash this one as well. Thanks! I took a final top rope trip up the climb to wrap up the day.

We headed to Pies and Pints again, and I had my standard Spinach Garlic pizza two nights in a row.  We headed back to camp and wondered over to the near by Adventures on the Gorge bar looking for a pool table.  We left after a beer and were in bed before the rain really got going around 10PM.

sun 10-25-2015

The rain dissipated in the morning and we had a leisurely breakfast at Cathedral. The waitress called me out for smelling like garlic (could always be worse on day 3 of a climbing trip). WE headed to Whippoorwill but found the lake higher than we hoped. We decided to finish off the 3 climbs on the first wall. Russ put up Whinerlamer.  Bryce and I got it clean. We next got on Jowiki, which was equivalent to the 5.8.  I hung the draws on Pat-agonia, messing up the beta right away and took my time hanging the draws. I was happy to redpoint this one my second go.  With that we decided to hit the road early and return to Philly.

 

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From → New River Gorge

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