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Gunks: April 9, 2017

April 10, 2017

I drove up for a day trip with Dave Roller. I we made good time for a Sunday morning.  We got right on some quality routes on my first day back in 2017.  Closures were in effect and the stellar weather had the Trapps looking very busy.  We hiked down to the Season.

Dave got on the Spring.  The route was gushing out the bottom, earning its name.  Roller got up to the chains. We moved the belay over and above the Winter. I lead the second pitch cleanly. I believe this was the second pitch of Spring as the routes cross, however the Williams guide and Gunks App differ in this distinction. Do the routes cross or not? It doesn’t matter. The crux is coming out of the open book/ right facing corner. Climb through some steepness on good holds, I plugged a Ball Nut into the seam in the ceiling, reached left hand out to a good hold, Dropped my right hand in to a side-pull and walked my feet up the face until i was nearly horizontal. I locked off and reached up right hand to a thank-god flat ledge. From here there climbing eases off and the anchor is just around the corner.

Dave and I each and a run at Last Frontier. Dave lead it, I lead it on his placed gear, then he cleaned it up.
We went down and Dave jumped on Simple Suff. I’ve been on the climb enough to feel confident I could get it if dave backed off, which he wisely did. I pushed on another move before realizing the route was wet in the thin finger locks, on the face crimps and even the horizontals. I made it to a fixed nut and also bailed. I had a bit of a scare when my lower “backup” nut popped. I wasn’t completely surprised by that since the nut was just clipped with a single carabiner, with a good bit of outward force being applied.  Anyway, I made it off safely with only leaving one carabiner behind.

We packed up and walked toward the uberfalls. Dave lead Pink Laurel onsight. Apparently it’s been 5 years since I last followed Wizard on this climb. It feels like just a season or two ago.  I cleaned that up and we headed on home.


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